Tomato Troubles
Tomato gardening, while not particularly difficult, can prove frustrating when your plants seem healthy one day, and sickly the next. During this time of year, there are several questions asked about home grown Tomatoes. Below are quick facts and tips for a few frequently asked questions.
Tomato Cracking
Cracking is a disorder caused by soil moisture fluctuations (fluctuating from too dry to too moist). When the tomato reaches the mature green stage and the water supply to the plant is reduced or cut off, the tomato will begin to ripen. At this time a cellophane-like wrapper around the outer surface of the tomato becomes thicker and more rigid to protect the tomato during and after harvest. If the water supply is restored after ripening begins, the plant will resume taking in nutrients and moisture into the fruit. This will cause the fruit to enlarge; which in turn splits the wrapper around the fruit and results in cracking. The single best control for cracking is a constant and regular water supply. Apply a layer of organic mulch to the base of the plant. This serves as a buffer and prevents soil moisture fluctuation. Water plants thoroughly every week. This is especially important when the fruits are maturing. Some varieties are resistant to cracking, but their skin is tougher.
Black Spots
Black Spots found on the bottom of Tomato plants are a common Tomato disease called Blossom End Rot. Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. First, a water-soaked spot appears, which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruits develop. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as 1/3 to 1/2 of the entire fruit surface. Spots dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture. Blossom End Rot is caused by improper moisture. To control Blossom End Rot, tomatoes should be planted in well drained, adequately aerated soils. Maintain uniform soil moisture always. Tomatoes planted early in cold soil are likely to develop blossom end rot on the first fruits. Thus, planting tomatoes in warmer soils helps to prevent the problem. Mulching of the soil is often helpful in maintaining soil water in times of moisture stress. In home gardens, shading the plants is often helpful when hot, dry winds are blowing, and soil moisture is low. Always remove affected fruit.
Yellow Stunted Plant & Root Knots
These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot nematodes live in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. Crop rotation is often stressed as a way to control nematodes and plant diseases. Simply, plant tomatoes in different parts of your home garden year to year. Rotating the same crops to different areas each year not only aids in the reduction of nematodes but soil borne diseases will also decrease. Some Tomato varieties are Nematode resistant. This is indicated by the letter N after the tomato name. Example: Celebrity VFN.
Blooms but No Fruit
Several conditions can cause tomatoes to not set fruit. Too much nitrogen fertilizer, nighttime temperatures over 70 degrees, low temperatures below 50 degrees, irregular watering, insects such as Thrips or planting the wrong variety may result in poor fruit set. Any of these conditions can cause poor fruit set, but combinations can cause failures. In many varieties, if any less than 8-10 hours of direct sunlight hits the plant directly it can result in a spindly growing, nonproductive plant with healthy foliage. Pollination relies heavily on humidity in the air. Too much or too little humidity can prevent a plant from self-pollinating.
For more information, contact the Wheeler County Extension Office at 806-826-5243
